Woven fabric



Feb. 9, 1937.

c. H. STERN WOVEN FABRI C Filed Jan. 17, 1936 \NVENTOR awe/.55 A. STE/6N ATTO RNEYS Patented Feb. 9, 1937 UN'iE STATES Free 6 Claims.

The present invention relates to a woven fabric and particularly relates to a woven fabric construction adapted for use in ties.

Although the present invention will be par ticularly described in connection with tie silk fabrics of the Mogador type, it is to be understood that the basic features of the invention also have a broader application to other fabrics than those of the Mogador type and even to fabrics other than woven fabrics.

In many types of fabrics composed wholly or partially of natural silk, it is customary to remove all the gum from the natural silk before completion of the fabric and this gum may generally be removed by placing the skein of natural silk or the fabric comprising the natural silk in a boiling alkaline soap bath for a substantial length of time.

After this degumming operation, the natural silk is dyed either in the form of a skein or in the form of the fabric.

In making tie silks, particularly of the Mogador type, from natural silk, it has been found unsatisfactory to form the rib strands, whether they lie in the warp or in the filling, of rayon, cotton or linen fibers in view of the fact that the final fabric is susceptible to creasing and slippage and is also of low quality and not capable of standing up under usual wear.

The rib strands, whether they be in the form of warp or filling, if white, would after relatively slight handling or wear tend to grin or shine through the fine threads, so that it was usually necessary to dye the rib stock, whereby this grinning or shining through would not too readily arise.

However, the difficulty immediately arose in the case of these fabrics in which the rib stock was sa dyed, when stripes were employed in the fine ends or strands the rib stock which would only match one color would cause an undesirable appearance When they grinned or appeared through the portions of the strip or stripes of other colors.

Furthermore, the slippage of the fine strands whetherthey be weft or warp, upon the rib stock, was attempted to be avoided by using a rib base stock of linen or cotton which would cause the entire tie fabric to be of relatively cheap quality.

It is among the objects of the present invention to provide an improved fabric of the type described with a large number of fine ends to constitute either the weft or warp and with a relatively small number of coarse strands forming the ribs, in which the fine strands would completely cover and embrace the coarse strands to give an improved rib fabric and in which said fine strands would be so anchored in position and rendered slip resistant as to enable production of a high grade fabric which would not tend to deteriorate even if subjected to severe wear and handling.

Another object is to provide an improved silk tie fabric in which the entire fabric is composed of natural silk, with assurance that such fabric would be of increased crush resistance and enhanced Wearing qualities.

Another object is to provide an improved silk tie fabric of the Mogador type which would be entirely constructed of natural silk, which would be of less cost but of improved quality, and which would be highly resistant to grinning or shining.

Other objects will appear in the course of the following specification.

In accomplishing the above objects, it has been found most satisfactory to employ a rib stock whether it be warp or weft, but which is preferably the filling or weft, which rib stock will consist of undyed natural silk in gum preferably of the type known as silk tram.

On the other hand, the cover yarn, whether it be of weft or warp, but preferably the latter, is composed of a skein dyed natural silk which has been preferably relatively highly twisted and most desirable as of the type of twist known as Organzine.

Although the number of threads, the character of the threads, the amount of twist-and the character of weave may be widely varied, both for the rib stock and for the cover stock, nevertheless, it has been found most satisfactory to utilize a warp having between 350 to 500 threads per inch and a filling having 40 to 86 picks per inch.

The rib or weft stock preferably consists of a low twisted undyed, undegummed natural silk, each filling thread or pick preferably being composed of between 4 to 8 threads of 20/22 tram Which may be united together in one thread by four turns in the same direction as the individual tram fibers.

This relatively heavy tram which is used as the filling or weft, preferably is used to give about picks or 60 ribs per inch, and is natural silk in gum, the gum and this natural silk, as will be subsequently pointed out, will form an anchor for the covering warp strands which will now be described.

The covering warp strands are preferably used in the amount of 430 per inch and each strand preferably consists of two ends of Organzine natural silk which has been degummed and dyed in the skein.

Each of the ends of each warp strand is preferably twisted 16 to 18 turns right before they have been united and they are then united by 16 turns left.

The warp ends and filling ends are preferably combined by a plain or tabby weave in which the adjacent warp ends pass over and under the filling strands, the warp ends being so closely packed and positioned so closely adjacent each other as to substantially entirely conceal the undyed undegummed filling, which has such relatively great weight as compared to the warp that it gives a ribbed appearance to the fabric.

The stripes may be conveniently placed in the fabric by using different colors in the warp.

The gum coating on the natural silk filling strands will act to anchor the warp strands in position and will render the entire fabric highly resistant to creasing and slippage, the fabric having increased resiliency and increased crush resisting properties.

In addition, the fabric so constructed as above, when used in ties and subjected to strenuous wear and crushing infiuences will resist grinning and shining through, which is a difficulty often encountered in connection with fabrics in which the rib stock is composed of cotton, linen or even rayon.

It is to be understood that many other types of weaves, spacing of picks and warp ends and twists of individual warp or filling ends may be employed than specifically described above, and the novel filling construction of the present invention may be utilized or woven together with a skein dyed warp in any dobby or jacquard construction.

In addition, other types of rib stock may be provided with rough plastic, coherent coatings to anchor an opposite yarn whether it be weft or warp into position and prevent slippage when there is a great difference between the weight of the weft and the warp.

On the accompanying drawing, as shown in plan and in enlarged section, is diagrammatically shown one type of a fabric which may be produced according to the present invention in which Figure l is a plan of the fabric.

Figure 2 is a respective cross sectional view thereof.

In Figures 1 and 2, it will be noted that the filling l0 (which may alternatively be the warp if desired) is composed of a relatively heavy strand provided with a plastice coherent resilient coating H, such as the natural gum and silk.

Completely enclosing and embracing these relatively heavy strands are the fine strands of the warp l2 preferably composed of degummed and dyed natural silk.

' Of course, the essential feature of the present invention resides in the anchoring of one yarn upon the other by means of inherent plastic resilient coating, is of broad application to any fabric or textile construction.

I claim:

1. A Mogador tie silk fabric, in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp.

2. A Mogador tie silk fabric in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp, said warp strands being composed of Organzine silk.

3. A Mogador tie silk fabric in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp, said warp strands being employed in the amount of about 350 to 500 to the inch.

4. A Mogador tie silk fabric in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp, said warp strands consisting each of two ends of 20/22 natural silk each twisted 16/18 turns right, which have been united by twisting by 16 turns to the left.

5. A Mogador tie silk fabric in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp, said rib strands each including 4 to 8 threads of 20/22 natural silk tram.

6. A Mcgador tie silk fabric in which the ribs are formed of relatively coarse undyed low twist silk strands containing their natural gum and in which the covering strands are composed of relatively fine, degummed and dyed silk strands substantially and completely enclosing the rib strands and anchored in position by the gum on said rib strand, said ribs being formed by the filler and said covering strands being formed by the warp, said filling including four strands of 20/22 natural silk which have been united together in one thread by four turns.

CHARLES H. STERN. 

